Finally getting the results from the Sigma 105mm I was hoping for.
The first shots with the sigma already showed that the lens was great. But I never tried autofocus with macro shots.
I know macro doesn’t need autofocus, and I never used it because my previous lens didn’t do autofocus.
It makes getting 2 pictures for focusblending a lot easier.
First focus on the part you want in focus but is farther away from you main focus point (and keep the button pressed so the focuspoint stays fixed).
Then point the camera at your focus point that has to be really in focus. Take the picture, and again push the shutter, now it’ll focus on you main point.
The result of such an action after blending is this.
Exposure Time: 1/179
F Number: 16
ISO Speed Ratings: 100
camera & flash in manual mode
The time needed to refocus with automatic focus is a lot shorter than I have when doing a manual focus.
As a sidenote I’m still impressed with the sharpness of the lens.
Exposure Time: 1/179
F Number: 9.5
ISO Speed Ratings: 100
camera & flash in manual mode
Exposure Time: 1/750
F Number: 4
ISO Speed Ratings: 100
camera in manual mode (no flash)
Cheers
Ronny
K-5, Lightroom 3, import presets
By default lightroom adds next default settings to each image.
Presence
• Clarity:0
• Vibrance:0
• Saturation:0
Sharpening
• amount:25
• radius :1
• detail : 25
• masking: 0
Noise Reduction
• Luminance : 0
• Detail : 50
• Contrast: 0
• Color: 25
• Detail: 50
and it does that to any image, regardless the iso.
To change these setting depending on the iso value go to the menu
- edit / preferences
- the second tab ‘Presets’ and check the 4th checkbox ‘Make defaults specific to camera ISO settings.’
(you can always reset them)
Then I took pictures of the same subject starting at iso100 -> iso51200
For each images I dialed the Sharpening and Noise Reduction in that looked (imho) best.
And to add this setting as default you have to be in develop mode, menu – develop / set default settings / update to Current Settings.
I haven’t found how I can export these settings so you can import them so here they are.
iso 100 – sharpening 40 – 1.0 – 15 – 50 – noise reduction – 05 – 50 – 50 – 25 -50
iso 140 – sharpening 40 – 1.0 – 15 – 50 – noise reduction – 08 – 50 – 50 – 25 -50
iso 200 – sharpening 40 – 1.0 – 15 – 50 – noise reduction – 11 – 50 – 50 – 25 -50
iso 280 – sharpening 40 – 1.0 – 15 – 50 – noise reduction – 14 – 50 – 50 – 25 -50
iso 400 – sharpening 40 – 1.0 – 15 – 50 – noise reduction – 17 – 50 – 50 – 25 -50
iso 560 – sharpening 40 – 1.0 – 15 – 50 – noise reduction – 20 – 50 – 50 – 25 -50
iso 800 – sharpening 40 – 1.0 – 12 – 50 – noise reduction – 23 – 50 – 50 – 25 -50
iso 1100 – sharpening 40 – 0.8 – 10 – 50 – noise reduction – 26 – 50 – 50 – 25 -50
iso 1600 – sharpening 40 – 0.8 – 10 – 50 – noise reduction – 29 – 50 – 50 – 25 -50
iso 2200 – sharpening 38 – 0.8 – 10 – 60 – noise reduction – 32 – 50 – 50 – 25 -50
iso 3200 – sharpening 36 – 0.8 – 10 – 60 – noise reduction – 36 – 50 – 50 – 25 -50
iso 4500 – sharpening 32 – 0.8 – 10 – 70 – noise reduction – 39 – 50 – 50 – 25 -50
iso 6400 – sharpening 30 – 0.8 – 10 – 70 – noise reduction – 42 – 50 – 50 – 30 -50
iso 9000 – sharpening 28 – 0.8 – 10 – 75 – noise reduction – 45 – 50 – 50 – 40 -60
iso 12800 – sharpening 26 – 0.8 – 10 – 80 – noise reduction – 48 – 50 – 50 – 45 -60
iso 18000 – sharpening 26 – 0.8 – 10 – 80 – noise reduction – 52 – 40 – 40 – 50 -60
iso 25600 – sharpening 24 – 0.8 – 10 – 85 – noise reduction – 55 – 40 – 40 – 50 -60
iso 36000 – sharpening 22 – 0.8 – 10 – 85 – noise reduction – 58 – 40 – 40 – 60 -65
iso 51200 – sharpening 20 – 0.8 – 10 – 90 – noise reduction – 60 – 50 – 40 – 70 -70
Default I always have the presence set to
Presence
• Clarity:+15
• Vibrancy:+20
• Saturation:+5
The camera has no special settings.
I know that I start with a noise reduction of 5 while there is no noise to be found at iso100.
Then again the setting 5 doesn’t do anything as far as i can detect.
I then add 6 to the luminance each stop.
At iso6400 I can detect a bit more Chroma noise so I start changing the color (noise reduction)
For the sharpening I start out an don’t change anything till 800, then I start slowly removing the detail, to prevent creating extra noise. I also add more masking to exclude sharpening noise.
I haven’t measured anything to get to these results, but a lot of graphs you find about noise suggest that the noise is added in a linear mode related to exposure stops (100-200-400-800-…)
These setting will not remove all noise but are a good place to start.
I hope this might help, and any and all C&C is more than welcome.
Ronny
a few dragons (focusblended)
Hi,
I’ve been playing around a bit with focus blending close up shots.
The first shots where taken with an old kiron 105mm manual focus lens, and… after years of being careful, I broke it.
The last one is from the first shoot with my replacement macro lens, a sigma 105mm f2.8.
All shots where handheld.
A combination of 7 shots.
larger: 3000×2000 version
Exposure Time: 1/500
F Number: 2.8
ISO Speed Ratings: 140
Focal Length: 200
Only two shots where needed just to get both heads in focus.
larger: 3000×2000 version
Exposure Time: 1/125
F Number: 9.5
ISO Speed Ratings: 280
Focal Length: 200
This one was made with 5 shots, especially to get the tail more infocus.
larger: 3000×2000 version
Exposure Time: 1/125
F Number: 4
ISO Speed Ratings: 400
Focal Length: 105
Combination of 8 images.
This is the first time I tried multiple images when using a flash.
They don’t seem to mind.
larger: 3000×2000 version
Exposure Time: 1/125
F Number: 4
ISO Speed Ratings: 400
Focal Length: 105
Cheers
Ronny
What you can find in your neighborhood.
It’s strange what you can find in your neighborhood. Ok, 50km is not really close yet.
My only defense is that in another country.
But that’s a silly excuse as there are no borders and even the language is te same.
Luckily enough I am not the only one who never heard about this small St. Peter.
The Oudenbosch Basilica is a Roman Catholic basilica in the Dutch village of Oudenbosch. It was built under the initiative of father Willem Hellemons who was parish priest between 1842 and 1884. Its nave and interior were modeled after St. Peter’s Basilica in Rome; while the facade is a replica of the Basilica of St. John Lateran also in Rome. The Basilica was designed by architect Dr. P. Cuijpers. Construction began in 1865 but was not fully completed until 1982. The basilica is unique in the region in that it is quite large with classical Italian appearance that is atypical for most of northern Europe, let alone a small village in North Brabant in the Netherlands
K5 – tamron 17-50 f2.8 – f4 , 24mm , hdr-3-images
K5 – tamron 17-50 f2.8 – f5.6 , 17mm , hdr-3-images
K5 – tamron 17-50 f2.8 – f5.6 , 17mm iso1600, 1/20s , tonemaped
K5 – tamron 17-50 f2.8 – f5.6 , 17mm , hdr-3-images
K5 – sigma 10-20mm – f5.6 , 10mm , hdr-3-images
K5 – tamron 17-50 f2.8 – f4.5 , 17mm , hdr-3-images
Oh yes, I used Nik, HDR-Pro on all images, really like it works for me.
Cheers
Ronny
A few dragons
Sorry for not being really active on the forum,
I’ve been following but not commenting to much.
Got a few descent shots from last weeks I’d like to post.
nr3 is not really for the faint of heart.
nr1
1/750sec / F 4 / iso 140 / 300mm / sigma 100-300 f4 ex apo
nr2
1/180sec / F 11/ iso 100 / 100mm / kiron 105mm / sigma ringflash 140DG
nr3
[I]1/180sec / F 11/ iso 100 / 100mm / kiron 105mm / sigmaringflash 140DG
PS: The sigma ring flash works good – especially in manual mode, but then I always have problems with p-ttl. Manual works a lot better with flashes in my case.
Cheers
Ronny